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A Guide to Rolexs Releases from Watches and Wonders 2024

April 16, 2024

The Geneva trade show saw the introduction of several new variations of existing models and some notable discontinuations.

It was only a year ago that Rolex introduced an entirely new collection, several controversial dial patterns, exhibition casebacks, and a wearable titanium watch for the first time. This year's releases seem far more restrained in comparison. Rolex is back to its usual strategy of releasing safe iterations of existing watches. That said, there is still cause to be excited; some of the brand's most popular collections have received additions which no doubt will be in high demand in the coming months.

The Deepsea in Yellow Gold and Blue

The yellow-gold Deepsea is perhaps the most noticeable and discussion-worthy release from Rolex this year. After all, the watch is meant to be noticed. The model's 44mm size is conspicuous enough to begin with. Combine that with a yellow gold case and bracelet and a bright blue dial and bezel and you get a pretty flashy watch. Ironically, the Deepsea was originally designed to be a tool; the new model retains the functional helium escape valve and water resistance rating of 12,800 feet.

The use of gold, which is not exactly the lightest of metals, for a watch of this size makes the Deepsea heavier than an anchor. Rolex has chosen to use titanium for the helium escape valve and caseback, as if that could offset the immense weight of the rest of the watch. Despite its impracticality, the new release, which retails for 52,100, will undoubtedly be very difficult to get for the foreseeable future.

A GMT Master II with a Black and Gray Bezel

The GMT Master II remains one of Rolex's most popular models. Last year saw two new gold, black, and gray additions to the collection. This release essentially revives one of the first steel GMT Master IIs to use the Cerachrom bezel, the 116710. Now, the bezel is black or gray like the one from the two gold models from last year. The green 24-hour hand and "GMT Master II" text remain true to the original 116710. The watch is also available on an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

A Platinum 1908

Rolex has introduced a new case metal and dial to the collection of dress watches unveiled at Watches and Wonders last year. The dial of the new 1908 is ice-blue, the color Rolex reserves exclusively for its platinum watches. The dial is further differentiated from those of its gold counterparts by an engine-turned, rice-grain motif radiating from the small seconds counter at six o'clock. Of course, the platinum case does not come cheap. The new model will set you back $30,900 at retail, a $9,000 premium over the gold version.

New Sky-Dweller and Day-Date Variations

Rolex has made the Sky-Dweller in rose and yellow gold available on the Jubilee bracelet for the first time. The brand also introduced three new Day-Date 40 dials: lacquer white with polished Roman numerals paired with yellow gold, sunburst "ombré" with rose gold, and a cloudlike mother of pearl with diamond hour markers and white gold. Rolex released a gem-set Day-Date 36 with a blue-green dial as well.

Two New Gem-Set Daytonas with MOP Dials

The Cosmograph Daytona collection sees two additions this year. Both new models feature a gem-set bezel, mother-of-pearl (MOP) dial, and white gold case. The dials also include contrasting sub-dials and diamond indexes. The black MOP version can be purchased on a white gold bracelet, while the lighter variant is available on the Oysterflex strap.

A Yellow Gold Le Mans Daytona Replaces the Original

Rolex has also discontinued the highly sought-after Le Mans Daytona released only just last year. The old white-gold model will be replaced by a yellow-gold edition. The new watch retains the 24-hour sub-dial for the 24 hours of the famous race but seems to have lost the tasteful red accents. The switch to yellow gold has made the model much more ostentatious. Of course, the availability of the new special edition is likely to be just as restricted. The now-discontinued white gold model is already trading for exorbitant prices.

New Year, New Discontinuations

Last year saw the discontinuation of the Cellini and Milgauss. This year, Rolex is tidying up its catalog once again. The latest model to be shown the door is the Yacht Master II, a relatively unpopular watch that lacked mass appeal due to its idiosyncratic looks and niche complication. The brand has also ditched the fluted- and palm-motif Datejust dials.

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